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Guy Bourdin created many signature photographs of beautiful women doing back bends, displaying flawless physiques in vulnerable positions to be taken advantage of, if only voyeuristically. He was a fashion photographer who worked for French Vogue for over 30 years, from 1955 to 1987. Especially during the '70s, his work filled the pages of international fashion magazines. Generally, his muses wear stiletto heels, lots of lip gloss, and not-terribly-subtle stripes of blush on preternaturally high cheekbones. Bourdin tended toward the plastic, not the earthy, and clearly preferred the glamorous to the sensible. His models' gazes almost never meet the camera. His 1967 ad campaign for Charles Jourdan shoes breathed new life into the fetish-footwear market.
The perverse esthetecization of violence, however, is Bourdin's most distinctive calling card. He's known for depicting women tied up, compromisedor dead. A black limousine with tinted windows is parked on a city street, the door ajar. A woman's leg dangles out. Mysterious fluid, possibly bodily, is on the sidewalk. Another photo shows a well-coifed woman in profile. A stream of shiny red fluid, obviously alluding to blood, spills from her mouth. It's graphically compelling. But that's only the tip of the iceberg.
Bourdin was clearly familiar with the adrenaline rush that comes the wicked, and also knows that the impulse to gawk at a disaster scene is a little kinky. We shouldn't look, but can't help yearn to. He gives us an image of little girls siting in a bed, their hair crimped, tricked out in Jon Benet Ramsey-style make up, providing a peephole to a world we want to see. It's not that his work condones violence and pedophilia. Rather, he exploits the fact that these things move us. He recognized that the things that turn us on are not always puritanical and politically correct. The niche Bourdin carved out for himself was truly on the cutting edgeexhilaratingly inappropriate and transgressive. Bourdin learned from the Surrealists, who inspired him: the bizarre fascinates us.

Added on: 27-2-2005 Hits: 1308


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